A refrigerator that stops cooling is the most urgent appliance call most households make, because a full fridge of food is on the clock. The good news is that the cause is often simple, and even when it isn’t, knowing what you’ve already checked helps a technician diagnose it faster. First, protect the food: keep the doors closed. A closed refrigerator keeps food safe for about four hours; a full freezer holds about 48 hours, and a half-full one about 24.
1. Check the settings
Temperature controls get bumped when groceries go in, and some models have a vacation or demo mode that stops cooling while the lights stay on. Fresh food should be between 37°F and 40°F and the freezer at 0°F. Use an appliance thermometer if you have one; the built-in display shows the setting, not always the actual temperature.
2. Make sure it has power
If the light is on, it has power, but the compressor and fans may still be off. Check that the plug is fully seated and that the outlet hasn’t been switched off. If the refrigerator shares a GFCI-protected outlet in a garage, the GFCI may have tripped.
3. Look for blocked vents
In most refrigerators, the cold air for the fresh-food section comes from the freezer through a vent. A box of food or a bag pushed against that vent, on either side, can starve the fresh-food section. Rearrange so air can move.
4. Check the door seal
A door that doesn’t close fully lets warm, humid air in. Close a dollar bill in the door at several spots; if it slides out with no resistance, the gasket may be weak or dirty, or the refrigerator may be out of level. Clean the gasket with warm soapy water and make sure the front of the fridge sits a little higher than the back so the doors swing shut.
5. Clean the condenser coils
The condenser coils and fan, usually at the bottom behind the toe grille or at the back, get rid of heat. When they’re packed with dust and pet hair, the refrigerator runs longer and cools less, especially in a hot kitchen or garage. Unplug the refrigerator, remove the grille and vacuum the coils with a brush attachment.
6. Listen for the fans
Open the freezer and press the door switch. You should hear the evaporator fan running behind the back wall. If it’s silent, rattling or squealing, the fan motor may be failing, which is one of the most common reasons the freezer stays cold while the fridge warms up. At the bottom, listen for the condenser fan when the compressor is running.
7. Look for frost on the freezer’s back wall
A thick, even layer of frost on the back wall of the freezer usually means the automatic defrost system has failed. Frost builds up on the evaporator coil until air can’t pass through it, and the fresh-food section warms up. Unplugging the refrigerator for a day can melt it temporarily, but the problem will return until the defrost heater, sensor or control is replaced.
| What you found | What it points to |
|---|---|
| Settings off or in demo mode | Reset the controls |
| Blocked vent | Rearrange food |
| Weak gasket or door won’t close | Clean or replace gasket, level the fridge |
| Dusty coils | Clean coils; check condenser fan |
| Silent evaporator fan | Fan motor replacement |
| Heavy frost on the back wall | Defrost system repair |
| Clicking every few minutes, nothing runs | Start relay or compressor problem |
When to call a technician
Call if the refrigerator is still warm after these checks, if you hear repeated clicking but the compressor never starts, if you see heavy frost on the back wall, or if the fan is silent or noisy. Throw out perishable food that has been above 40°F for more than two hours. Our refrigerator repair guide explains the common repairs, and if you have a built-in model, see high-end appliance repair. For everything else, visit our appliance repair in Silicon Valley page.