Every appliance repair call ends with the same question: fix it or replace it? The answer depends on three things: how old the appliance is, how much the repair costs compared with a new one, and what kind of appliance it is. A few simple rules get you most of the way to a good decision.
The 50% rule
The rule of thumb most technicians use: if the appliance is past about half of its expected life and the repair costs more than about half the price of a comparable new appliance, replacement usually makes more sense. If either one isn’t true, repair usually wins. A five-year-old refrigerator that needs a fan motor is an easy repair. A fourteen-year-old standard refrigerator with a failed compressor is usually a replacement.
| Appliance | Typical life | Usually worth repairing | Often time to replace |
|---|---|---|---|
| Refrigerator | 10–15 years | Fans, thermostats, defrost parts, valves | Sealed-system failure on an older standard unit |
| Washer | 10–13 years | Pump, door lock, belt, suspension | Tub bearings or a cracked tub on an older machine |
| Dryer | 10–15 years | Element, igniter, belt, rollers, fuse | Motor plus drum damage on an older unit |
| Dishwasher | 9–12 years | Pump, inlet valve, latch, gasket | Leaking tub or a board on an older budget model |
| Range or oven | 13–18 years | Igniter, element, sensor, switch | Multiple control failures on an older unit |
These ranges are rough. Brand, model, how hard the appliance is used and how well it’s maintained all change the picture.
When repair wins even on an older appliance
- Built-in and premium appliances. Built-in refrigerators, pro-style ranges and wall ovens are designed to be serviced for decades and cost several times more to replace.
- Custom fit. If cabinetry was built around the appliance, or a wall oven sits in an older cutout, a new unit may need carpentry on top of its price.
- Simple, inexpensive parts. Belts, door switches, igniters and fuses are worth replacing on almost any appliance in decent shape.
- A good overall condition. If the cabinet, drum, tub and controls are in good shape and only one part failed, repair is a reasonable bet.
When replacing makes more sense
- The appliance has needed several repairs in the last year or two.
- A major part has failed on an older budget model: a compressor, tub bearings or a main control board.
- Parts are discontinued and hard to find.
- You were planning to upgrade anyway, for example to an induction cooktop or a heat pump dryer.
- Energy use matters: a very old refrigerator or freezer can use far more electricity than a new efficient model.
A good technician tells you what failed, what the repair costs, and what else on the appliance looks worn. Ask: “If this were yours, would you fix it?” Most will give you an honest answer.
Don’t forget the warranty
Before you pay for a repair, check whether the appliance is still under the manufacturer’s warranty, an extended warranty from the store, or a home warranty. Many credit cards extend manufacturer warranties too. If it’s covered, start with the warranty provider. Keep the receipt and the model and serial number together; you’ll need them either way.
Getting a fair diagnosis
In California, businesses that repair major home appliances generally must register with the Bureau of Household Goods and Services and give you a written estimate before work. Ask about the diagnostic fee and whether it’s credited toward the repair. For specific appliances, see our guides to refrigerator repair, washer repair and dishwasher repair, or start at our Sunnyvale appliance repair overview.
Repair is often the greener choice
Keeping a working appliance running a few more years keeps a large, heavy machine out of the waste stream and avoids the energy used to make and ship a new one. When the efficiency difference is small, which is often the case with washers, dryers and ranges, repair usually comes out ahead. Old refrigerators and freezers are the main exception, because their electricity use adds up year after year.